Since the beginning our mission has been to serve you.

Since the beginning our mission has been to serve you

Surface mulching

Your Sod is a living organism, that in order to remain green, strong, and healthy requires constant (and balanced) supply of nutrients and water. They key to successful lawn lies in the soil upon which it grows. Over the course of the season, the grass roots draw the nutrients they need from the soil, and constant replenishing of these nutrients is required to keep your lawn green and healthy. In addition, parts of the lawn may get damaged due to increased traffic, or close proximity to nutrient- draining plants and trees. Spring is a wonderful time to replenish the soil and repair the damaged parts – as during this time root development and growth is accelerated, rain is abundant, and temperatures relatively mild – perfect conditions for top dressing and overseeding. Top Dressing is the process of improving the quality of your soil, by covering it with a Granular compost is a great top-dressing material fresh layer of nutrients and mineral rich substances like compost, manure, grow max or triple mix. Covering your lawn with such substances once a year (spring or fall) significantly improves the top layer of the soil – where grass roots live – nutrients quickly sink in to the root area, and support their growth development which is accelerated in the spring. A highly effective method to top-dress your lawn is with granulated compost (as it is easy to apply, and provides slow-release effect, feeding the grass roots with nutrients over time.

Over Seeding:

Over-seeding is the process of repairing damaged parts of your existing lawn. It is done by spreading grass seed over the damaged parts and (very important!) covering it with a 1” thick layer of soil. Covering the seed with soil is important, as seeds will only germinate underground. Grass seed compliments the existing lawn, and fills up the bare patches. We recommend limiting overseeding small areas, as large areas will also foster the growth of weeds (which grow much faster than grass seed). And with the pesticide ban on the island of Montreal (which we passionately support) are almost impossible to prevent when overseeding extensive areas. Sodding is more appropriate when creating a whole new lawn. It is important to make sure that overseeding is done early in the spring or in the fall, when temperatures are mild and are not likely to go over 21C, and to keep the surface constantly moist for the first 21 days. Overseeding is also great and is the only solution for shady areas: while there is no commercially available shade-sod, there is amazing shade grass seed, and we always suggest shade over-seed when Sodding a garden with shady parts. Unlike sodding, which could be done at any time of year, both activities are great to be done in spring, when grass growth and root development is at its peak. Having said that, both activities may also be done in the fall (especially top dressing) – you will see the results first thing in the spring.

Controlling Weeds

Controlling weeds is the botanical component of pest control, which attempts to stop weeds, especially noxious or injurious weeds, from competing with domesticated plants and livestock. Many strategies have been developed in order to contain these plants. The original strategy was manual removal including ploughing, which can cut the roots of weeds. More recent approaches herbicides (chemical weed killers) and reducing stocks by burning and/or pulverizing seeds. A plant is often termed a "weed" when it has one or more of the following characteristics: • Little or no recognized value (as in medicinal, material, nutritional or energy) • Rapid growth and/or ease of germination • Competitive with crops for space, light, water and nutrients With our scheduled spring, mid-summer and fall weed control treatments along with free reapplication Pro Green Lawn Care and Mowing will eliminate all weeds on your lawn.


Fertilization is one of the primary lawn care practices. If done properly has a major positive impact on lawn appearance. First, choose a quality fertilizer, then apply the right amount (rate) and apply at the right time of the season. Most quality lawn fertilizers offer a balance of fast and controlled release sources to offer a fertilizer that will provide some quick color (without a big surge of growth) and some long-lasting nitrogen. Whether a fertilizer is organic or synthetic, after applied to the lawn it must convert to a form the plant can use. Once converted, the plant does not know the difference as to the nitrogen source. One of the advantages associated with organic sources is low chance of burning grass. Some synthetic fast-release sources have high salt levels that increase the chances of burning. On the other hand, most synthetic controlled-release sources are very unlikely to burn grass. Pro Green Lawn Care and Mowing offers you a spring and fall granular slow release fertilizer to continuously feed your lawn resulting in a thick, lush green turf.

Lawn Mowing:

Pro Green Lawn Care and Mowing provides mowing services at an affordable cost no matter the size of the lawn. Our professionals will cut your lawn at the right height for the type of grass that is present. Remember that mowing is pruning. Proper mowing increases the density of the lawn, which in turn decreases weeds. Each type of grass has a recommended mowing height. Find out which type of grass is in your lawn (you may have more than one) and mow at the proper height. Stick to the 1/3 rule — never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade length at any one time. A healthy lawn can survive an occasional close cut. Repeated close mowing produces a brown lawn and has several harmful side effects, including: • Injury to the crown, where new growth generates and nutrients are stored. • Reduction of the surface area of the blade, making the blade surface insufficient to produce food through photosynthesis. • Increased vulnerability to pests and disease. • An increase in the sunlight reaching weed seeds, allowing them to germinate. • Risk of soil compaction.

  • Mow when the grass is dry. The blades will be upright and less likely to clump when cut.
  •  Avoid mowing in the heat of the day to prevent heat stress on your grass and yourself.
  •  Keep mower blades sharp and balanced. Ragged cuts made by dull blades increase the chance of disease and pests.
  •  Change the mowing pattern each time you mow. Grass develops a grain based on your cutting direction, tending to lean towards the direction you mow. Alternating the pattern causes more • upright growth and helps avoid producing ruts in the lawn.
  •  Mow moving forward, whether you’re pushing a walk-behind mower or sitting behind the wheel of a lawn tractor.
  •  Discharge the clippings (unless you bag them) towards the area you have already cut.
  •  Leave clippings on the lawn unless they form clumps or rows. This technique (known as grass cycling) returns nutrients and nitrogen to the lawn.
  •  Consider using a mulching mower or mulching attachments.
  •  If you bag your clippings, consider composting them.
  •  Mow grass higher in shaded areas under trees. In these areas grass has to compete with tree roots for water and nutrients.
  •  Reduce mowing frequency and raise the mowing height of cool-season grasses when hot, dry weather slows their growth rate.
  •  Follow the proper fertilizing schedule for your type of turf grass.
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